Dialogue - Emiowasu [Part 1] -
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"The view is similar to the views I saw in Thailand and Laos."
Naoki and Junko Abe of Emiowasu, based in Kibichuo Town, Okayama Prefecture, make clothes using natural materials and traditional Japanese and Asian handcraft techniques.
Rooted in the land, surrounded by animals such as goats and dogs, they spend their days savoring the nature of the four seasons and the joys of life.
"Don't let your dreams end as dreams"
This sentiment, combined with craftsmanship close to the earth, allows us to create clothing that is suited to everyday life and the body.
A journey through traditional fabrics from around Asia
When he was a college dropout, Naoki had some health issues and learned the importance of what he ate and the rhythm of his life. After working at a food company for two years, he decided to travel around Japan.
The origins of Emiowasu clothing can be traced back to a long journey through traditional fabrics from all over Asia.
The two, who have always loved clothes, eventually began hand-sewing their own clothes, and finding fabrics and clothing became one of the joys of traveling.
"I wanted to create simple clothes that were inspired by the traditional ethnic clothing made by villagers, and that Japanese people could easily wear in their daily lives."
At Emiowasu, Naoki is mainly in charge of dyeing, production management, and exhibition planning, while Junko is in charge of clothing production, including designing and drawing patterns.
The Himalayan region at an altitude of 2,500m, the depths of Thailand and Laos, India, and Japan.
The two visited villages and communities around the country, observing people's lives in harmony with nature and coming into contact with the handicrafts that are deeply rooted in the area.
"The reason I became attracted to handicrafts was mainly because of my encounter with "Khadi", a hand-woven fabric produced in India. When I touched Khadi cloth, I noticed that the thickness of the threads was uneven and the strength of the weave varied, which made me realize the simple fact that cloth is made from threads.
"A single piece of cloth is made from plants such as cotton or linen, and I was strongly attracted to the process by which the raw materials are made and the material itself. So when I started to hand-sew our own clothes using Indian fabrics, I realised that while there were benefits to hand-sewn clothing, it was also difficult and time-consuming."
A hand-sewn garment made by a mother living in a small village in Thailand.
"In Asian everyday wear and ethnic clothing, there are some that can be made neatly with very few steps, are simple but efficient, and don't waste fabric. I admire that kind of manufacturing method." (Naoki)
During their travels, whenever they came across a village that seemed right to them, they would unpack their bags and stay for a long time. Rather than being tourists, they would immerse themselves in the local lifestyle and natural environment, encountering the lives and handicrafts of the villagers.
A major turning point for Emiowasu came when the brand came across a hand-sewn garment made by a mother living in a small village in Thailand.
"It's a very time-consuming process, and it's unthinkable with ready-to-wear clothing in Japan. When we asked her if she would make clothes using our patterns, she was reluctant at first, but when Junko made a sample using the traditional stitching of the village, she was impressed and said, 'Even though you're Japanese, you've made clothes using my sewing style!' From then on, she started sewing our clothes.
Through repeated exchanges, we got closer to our ideal. It was all a trial and error process, but that's how we started making clothes."
Scenery in my memory
When they lived in Tokyo, they rented a house at the foot of the mountains in Hachioji. They had always had a vision for the future, wanting to build a house in nature someday and spend their days making clothes.
While they were living in Tokyo, they were surrounded by people who shared the same values and were engaged in manufacturing, so although they had an idea of moving, they were hesitant to take action. In January 2011, their son, Sota, was born.
"We want to raise our children in a place rich in nature," the couple had said for a long time, and so they began searching for the ideal place to move to.
"Just then the earthquake happened, so we decided to move immediately."
Following a friend's recommendation, I arrived in Kibichuo Town in Okayama Prefecture.
The sight of houses dotted across the barren countryside was very similar to the towns I loved in Thailand and India.
"When I was introduced to this land, I was taken aback. It felt like I had discovered a view that had been in my memory forever."
In front of the house is a cultivated field, and fresh vegetables from the field are lined up on the dining table. In the animal shed, the goats Meme and Seven graze, and the dog Chaco roams freely - a typical day.
The dwelling, which combines a living space and a clothing studio, was built in a clearing house in a dense scrub forest that had remained untouched for over 20 years, and took two years to complete with the help of local carpenters.
"The people I work with in Thailand and India live traditional lives that are close to nature and are very healthy and comfortable.
They live a self-sufficient life, and just like rice and vegetables, cotton is planted in a yearly cycle. Once harvested, it is spun by hand and woven into cloth on a traditional loom. A lifestyle that is no longer seen in Japan remains strong today. I admire this way of life, and I would like to continue to practice it and spend my days here.
Texture created by handwork
During the interview, the wrong size fabric was delivered. After many exchanges, the ideal shape was finally created.
The "Emiowasu Exhibition" will be held from Saturday, March 20th.
This exhibition will include clothing as well as Karen spoons and tableware that Naoki collected whenever he visited Thailand.
Since starting to make clothes, the company has placed emphasis on not having physical stores, but instead selling directly through exhibitions and other means.
Why do they still insist on face-to-face sales?
"The best part of interacting with customers face-to-face is seeing them wearing the clothes and looking happy. After they buy clothes, I'm afraid to ask how they wear them, but when they say, 'I'm really wearing the clothes I bought the other day,' it makes me really happy.
"I try to visit the exhibition locations as much as possible, interact with customers, and let them make their selections. I listen to the customers' opinions directly, and that becomes the energy for my next product development. I think that's why I continue to sell my products directly at exhibitions."
- Emiowasu
- Emiowasu is a clothing brand run by husband and wife Abe Naoki and Junko, based in Kibichuo Town, Okayama Prefecture. They use hand-spun and hand-knitted fabrics from the Himalayan region of India, hand-woven fabrics from small villages in northern Thailand, and fabrics woven by weavers all over Japan to create clothes, bags, and other items that are made with natural materials and handcrafted techniques.
https://emiowasu.com/
After this conversation, due to the COVID-19 pandemic, it is difficult to travel abroad. The two communicate online and create things with the seamstresses in the village. Sometimes they have disagreements and end up with something different from what they had hoped for. But what they value is their desire to convey the charm of handicrafts. "There's nothing in particular that I keep in mind during our interactions, and I think I'm more likely to be reminded of things." How will the textures created by handicrafts be displayed in space across countries? I can't wait for the exhibition to begin. In the next part, I plan to write about the process of making Emiowasu's clothes and their life.
Interviewer and writer: Yoshiaki Ono
Emiowasu Exhibition Dates: March 20th (Sat) – March 28th (Sun) 2021
*No holidays during the period Artist's presence in the gallery March 20th (Sat)
Time 13:00-18:00